I'm a great fan of this neon sign that wraps around the corner so gracefully. The appetizing scent of fresh waffles and curried fish balls mingle with the putrid odor emanating from the stinky tofu stand a few doors down. (Stinky tofu: Is there any cooked food on earth that smells so different from the way that it tastes?) No other neighborhood in Hong Kong has inspired me to sketch as much as Mong Kok East with its carnival-like atmosphere, profusion of neon signs, hotels that rent rooms by the hour, and lively street markets that sell everything from goldfish to knock-off designer jeans and durian fruit. The competing smells turn this neighborhood into a veritable olfactory Olympics.